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Day Three – Lara Croft-DunWannabe In Ta Phrom

The previous day’s walk warranted for a more comfy pair of walkers so I opted for my pink croc-alikes to substitute my already comfy Timberlands. Aaaahhh……who needs to pay more than a hundred bucks for a pair of branded foam? A Tesco-substitute is just as good & I have the option of buying 6 pairs in different colours for the same amount if I were to pay for a pair of branded ones. Believe me, it won’t hurt so much if it gets stolen!

And so after a hearty breakfast, we boarded the tuk-tuk with Sokha to get to the well-known location set of Lara Croft’s Tomb Raider. I dunwannabe her. I just wannabe there……

This ruin was found amidst a jungle & the trees have overtaken the structure by their gigantic root system. When the Khmer empire fell, the temple was deserted for centuries, allowing nature to take over. We arrived before 9am & there weren’t that many people yet so I had a free reign to do whatever I wanted to do with my Man…………………………..frotto Modo!!! Hah! What were you thinking? My travel partner was busy scouting for that special silk cotton tree, leaving me all by myself to pose & pose some more! This was a place where I could fantasise all day about being a maiden in distress & my prince coming to my rescue……..& then I hear my name being called out to get off that tree. Errr…..now where were we??

I imagined a world of intensity within this 1 sq kilometre compound of temple. The massive trees were left here intentionally by the archaeologists working on the site. While clearing back the forest it was decided to leave them in place to serve as a reminder of how the original discoverers found it and other temples. Many of the trees have grown around and through the remains, and soar high above the temple. Every turn I make, there is a giant tree. And this giant strangler fig was so huge, I was almost afraid that if I touched it, it would stretch out to grab me & swallow me up. I would think giants lived here.

I had a field day walking around the skirted roots & imagining a Jack climbing up this massive beanstalk……I hurried through the corridors of the inner sanctum before the Giant got down Jack’s beanstalk……it’s amazing how I can run when I feel something big is on my trail……

When there are many sanctums, corridors & doorways to pass through, one would get really confused when you see rubble, rubble & rubble. Apparently a whole lot of rubble had been removed from the passageways to make nicer walkways for visitors to appreciate Ta Phrom. This place is so ancient that you can almost feel a part of the Khmer civilisation taking place. Darn, the giant is after me, I must keep the pace……*huff! huff!*

Most parts have trees sticking out or growing over the temple like this one.



It’s a real sight to behold. The contrast of my pictures are too great & I couldn’t stick around long enough in one spot lest the giant finds me & eats me…..

Where is my prince who’s supposed to rescue me from the menacing giant?!? Having time to climb over a root system to take this picture within a 12 second lapse, I’ve just about made it away from the menacing giant on my tail……my prince is nowhere to be seen……

Ah…..my prince finally came to rescue me & we lived happily ever after!

Footnote:- The story above is purely a fiction of my imagination & the giant at my tail are the throng of tourists following closely behind us trying to see where I take my pictures & posed where I stood posing. I apprehended ‘the prince’ for a picture just as he was about to leave the beanstalk…..ooops, giant tree! Hope he doesn’t freak out when he finds out that he played the prince in my Ta Phrom Tale!!! :D

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Still On Day Two – Angkor Wat Now!

The day is not done. It was approaching the hot noon day sun & I was baking in my shirt. Thankfully for the delicately graceful art of fanning that my nanny taught me when I was growing up, having my plastic citrus-shaped fan with me was a real blessing. Forget about delicacy, I was madly fanning myself in the scorching sun. How can the rainy season in Khmer be so hot?!?!? What about the dry season?? I’d be cooked! *Pengsan….* Talk about going on mission trips, I had better get used to this heat……*fan! fan! fan!* We apprehended the passing ice-cream man. The Khmer version of ‘ais krim potong’ (tubular cut lollies) was out of this world. We had two coconut ice stick each just to satisfy my sugar-levels in the blazing heat reflected from the laterite & sandstones of Angkor Thom.

It’s an enormous complex of elevated towers, covered galleries, decorated frontons, courtyards, gopuras, stairways & of course, exquisite carvings. A large pool to the left presented us with a magnificent view of all five sanctuary towers reflected in the water & after exploring this gigantic structure (check out the size comparison of the human being in the pictures……the one of me standing against the middle tower with the desire to climb but could not because they’ve cordoned off the place for restoration works!!!) we stopped at a refreshment stand close by to gobble up the contents of a coconut, water & all.

There were tourists all over the place & I had to strategically position myself to take shots WITHOUT them in my frame or set up my Manfrotto Modo on a 12 seconds’ timer to give myself lots of room to dash in front of the camera for candid poses & such. And I was having the time of my life because Angkor Wat is so BIG & SPACIOUS.

By the time we decided to go, the thought of walking the entire stretch of the courtyard (300metres or so) was enough to make me go jelly from the day’s journey. I was ready to kick my Timberlands off & jump into any pool of water even with frogs. I was so hot. Well, there is a moat outside which had crocodiles in the days of old before…..

That night, we had my first taste of Cambodian food at the Khmer Kitchen near Pub Street. I’ve fallen in love with Khmer Grilled Mackerel at first bite. I also got my Lemon Grass Tea. Apart from great food, we were serenaded by a band of buskers who are victims of land mines. I was then, totally emersed with the Khmer culture at last.

Next, the scenic route of Day Three…..

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Day Two in The Lost Empire of Khmer

Rising in the morning in a foreign place is strange, the direction of the bathroom & the orientation of the bed somehow puzzled me for awhile before I realised I was indeed, in Cambodia! Year 2007 & not ZERO, the year Pol Pot had reverted to when he regressed the Khmer people to be agrarians. I just cannot imagine the amount of suffering & bewilderment, to mildly put it, the Khmer people had to wake up to during that period between 1975 – 1979 & the effects after. The present average age of the citizens is 25 years old. I had a feeling that this second day in Siem Reap will be more thought-provoking than the day before. I was rushed through breakfast as usual as my travel partner couldn’t understand why I like to chew my food 343 times before swallowing…….alright, I exaggerated but I like to stretch my breakies….

We headed out to what was once, a great empire nestled in the vast expanse of fertile land. Sokha took us in a tuk-tuk, a rather tiny carriage fitted for joyrides, towed by his ever-trusty motorbike, to the first destination, The Bayon. The Bayon was the last state temple to be built at Angkor. The similarity of the 200 or so gigantic faces on the temple’s towers to other statues of the king has led many scholars to the conclusion that the faces are representations of Jayavarman VII himself. Angkor scholar George Coedès has theorized that Jayavarman stood squarely in the tradition of the Khmer monarchs in thinking of himself as a “devaraja” (god-king), the salient difference being that while his predecessors were Hindus and regarded themselves as consubstantial with Shiva and his symbol the lingam, Jayavarman as a Buddhist identified himself with the Buddha and the bodhisattva. There were so many faces on the wall, that every corner I turned, I found a face staring at me.

The most profound thing to me in this ruin was the bas relief on the wall. Not sequential, the depiction of the battle that took place was intense, with people in the market scenes being exceptionally comical when a woman shoves a ‘turtle’ to bite the butt of a man (possibly the husband who came home late last night!)……..I thought it was brilliant!

Women cooking around the pot & birds atop the roof!



The naval battle…..


The King on the elephant in a procession…..

As we were within the 9sg km compound of Angkor Thom, Sum, who was the licensed Tour Guide assigned to us that day, brought us to see what transpired through this empire’s civilisation. Whatever that’s left of Baphuon & the Terrace of The Elephants…….

……..where the king would watch the parade of his people. As I walked on the terrace, I too, felt like the king who once lived in the grounds of Angkor Thom. The sheer size of this structure & the vista from the terrace is amazing, not to mention he built 82 temples during his reign. Why is one not enough?

Then along the way was Phimeanakas, a tower built as a Celestial Palace, was a bit too steep for me to climb so I walked around it instead. I have no plans to roll down this tower should I & my two left feet slip & tumble. My precious Oly will not like that too.

And a structure that represented Hell & Heaven which is a narrow walkway within the walls carved with idols. It was flooded from the rain inside so I only went so far.

We were taken to Preah Khan where I walked through a maze of tunnels & doorways leading to a huge courtyard at the back. Upon reaching the core of this ruin, I found an old lady guarding the statue of Buddha. According to the guide, she’s been there forever. I gave her something & took a picture of this lady as she was rolling some leaves to eat…..

I wanted to know why she stayed within the temple & where her family was or if she had any family but the language barrier prevented me from doing so. For that moment, I thought about the many Cambodians who had their family members killed in the Pol Pot’s Regime. Sokha’s father was one of them. His mother’s cousin had 4 children & the husband had to steal a corn from the corn fields of Pol Pot to feed the famished family but when he ws found out, the entire family was massacred. Such was the atrocities committed in Pol Pot’s reign of terror. I can never look at a corn the same way again.

The entrance to Preah Khan…..

There were tunnels……

…and there were doorways…..

…..seemingly endless with broken stones that piled beyond recognition. The reconstruction is almost impossible as they didn’t know which piece fit what & where it belonged.

To be continued……..

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Day One In The Lost Empire of Khmer

Finding someone who likes the things that you do is hard enough but finding someone to have a stress-free trip with is heaven-sent! We arrived in Siem Reap half dazed because I had spent the night before packing the ‘pummkin’s-infamous-last-minute-items’ & found out later that I left my entourage behind! Not good, especially when I had travel the seas with them keeping me tucked & snug in bed….

Sokha, our driver cum guide, picked us up at the airport, detailing all the stuff we were going to do & stressing that the itinerary is flexible. We checked into a guesthouse but I would deem it as a boutique resort from the friendly & hospitable service rendered. The accommodation was great. We had two beds & ample space to put all our photographic equipment & power to supply to our laptops. What’s better is there’s wifi broadband to stay connected!!! My first inclination was to look for food so we headed out to the Old Market for some walkabout to see what we can savour & in the process, take some pictures of the life in Siem Reap town.

We were picked up to go to the Artisans Angkor, a place of the revival of the art of Khmer almost lost in the Pol Pot’s Regime. An escapee of the genocide who fled to France in the 80′s, had obtained artistic & technical background, enough to help rebuild the poverty & the lost art of Khmer when he returned to Cambodia in 1998. The art of sculpturing & wood carving was taught to the Khmer people & eventually, silk weaving. During his time in power, Pol Pot imposed an extreme version of agrarian communism where city dwellers were relocated to the countryside to work in collective farms and forced labour projects. The combined effect of slave labour, malnutrition, poor medical care and EXECUTIONS is estimated to have killed around 2 million Cambodians, approximately a quarter of the population. His regime achieved special notoriety for singling out all intellectuals and other “materialistic, middle class enemies” for murder. In 1979, he fled into the jungles of North West Cambodia after an invasion by neighbouring Vietnam which led to the collapse of the Khmer Rouge government. Pol Pot was never brought to justice, although he was overthrown and imprisoned by other Khmer Rouge leaders, and succumbed to natural causes in 1998 while under house arrest.


They hire speech & hearing-impaired Khmers after teaching them the skills. A big step in rebuilding the lives of the former war-torn country.


Another artisan who is speech & hearing impaired.

We headed out to our first temple visit for the evening at 4:30pm where we would obtain our passes for the next three days. Entrance is free after 4:30pm when you make your purchase. It’s a bit steep at US$40 but in the ensuing days, it was all worth it.
The Banteay Kdei was the first of the succession of temples which we we would visit & I must say, it is quite ruined. The rustic feel was overwhelming me. It wasn’t so simple as to walk but because there are steps in the doorways, I always have to climb & duck to avoid hitting the top .

When we have done the entire loop of Banteay Kdei, we had a picnic courtesy of The villa!

WIth me enjoying the Brie cheese, olives & wine!!!

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I’m In The Ancient City

When I thought about doing something radical this year, I decided to embark on my annual expedition to ‘anywhere.’ Anywhere must be somewhere I hadn’t been before. And anywhere must be authentic. Anywhere must be affordable. So I searched everywhere to find anywhere to see.

With last year’s spectacular Royal Flora Ratchaphruek in Chieng Mai, this year had to outdo the last. I wanted to document an experience that I could look back in years to come & say, “Wow! Look at that…..!” And I did just that. And anywhere with the greatest monuments of the ancient world has got to be found in Siem Reap. I journeyed through the ruins & learnt of a history that dates back a thousand years. I began to marvel at the engineering & architecture that the ancient world possessed even though none of the modern technology of computers & tractors were used to aid the design & construction of the temples. Not only the structures were huge but the whole of Angkor Wat area spans miles. All the steps & stones of the ruins almost caused my back & hip to give way again but thankfully I am still in one piece. I would not go into a temple if it was still an active place of worship.

I got here on Wednesday & will be flying home on Monday. A three-day temple pass to enter the World Heritage Site cost me USD40. I covered almost all of the ruins in Angkor Wat & Angkor Thom, the ancient city, allowing me to have a sense of the civilisation that took place. I went to Ta Phrom where Tomb Raider was filmed & got astonished by the size of the humungous banyan trees that intertwined the the temple. The roots have grown into the building & it’s best left alone. The jungle literally swallowed up the temple when it was found.

All the bas relief (carvings) on the stones of most temples, tell of the way of life & the legacy of the kings who ruled in that era. The downside to these places is the hoards of tourists (like me) who want a piece of the experience while I took pictures with them in my frame!!!


I have just enough energy to write this & post it via my guesthouse’s wifi service. Cambodia is a great place to be in. I’m like a sponge right now, absorbing all that my guide is telling me, about the Khmer Rouge; Pol Pot’s Regime, rise & fall of the empires & so much more. I can’t wait to share it with you….

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